From the Ocean to Your Home: Recreating Nature’s Water Movement
Sean Raines, Senior Product Manager, UPG Aquatic

Those who frequent the world’s many shorelines are immediately familiar with the sight of crashing waves, the pull of ocean tides and the push of ocean currents. Working in tandem, these forces create our oceans’ water movement.

Inherently, ocean water moves. It is not able to stay still, much to the pleasure of thriving underwater ecosystems and ocean inhabitants. In comparison, and without intervention, the water in a reef aquarium remains virtually motionless. In order to replicate the conditions naturally found on a reef, it is necessary to understand the three types of water movement found in nature: steady flow, turbulence and surge. A combination of the three is typically ideal, though the species found in a reef aquarium will dictate how best to orchestrate ideal movement.

A steady, uninterrupted and layered flow of water, sometimes referred to as laminar flow, is smooth, with unidirectional movement that runs in orderly, parallel lines. While it is most easily replicated, on its own laminar flow proves to be ineffectual at producing the types of water movement needed to maintain a healthy aquarium.

Turbulence is a more random and vigorous swirl and flow of water. To sustain a turbulent flow, a constant source of energy must always be at work. It is considered to be the most challenging type of water movement to recreate in aquariums. Even widely-respected scientists and physicists struggle to define how liquids transition from smooth to turbulent states. It is also, however, considered to be the most necessary type of water movement in reef aquariums, as most saltwater dwellers have adapted to expect some level of turbulence.

Surge rounds out the most common labels for water movement types. As its name implies, it is a sudden burst of force, often associated with natural events, as in hurricanes. These strong, yet periodic, surges add another dimension to the conditions found naturally in ocean environments.

In essence, then, reefkeepers aspire to recreate a piece of the ocean at home. As with any inhabitant of a reef aquarium, proper nutrition, lighting, filtration and water movement are most important to their health, wellness and growth.

Water Movement and Coral
When it comes to establishing an ideal level of currents, one answer does not fit all, especially when it comes to coral. However, proper water movement is essential, and naturally occurring processes – including filtration, aeration and water flow – can all be recreated successfully at home.

Ultimately water movement and filtration not only result in ideal environs, but also prevent the creation of dead spots, or areas in a reef aquarium where water is stagnant. Uneaten fish food, waste and dead algae material collect in these areas resulting in deadly ammonia or ammonium spikes. These dead spots are more likely to occur in corners or near live rock. In addition, this combination of materials may have a devastating impact simply by accumulating on and around coral where it will eventually decay. In an aquarium with optimum circulation, water serves to sweep away detritus while carrying supplies of food to sessile coral species. Thorough and ongoing circulation also perpetuates oxygen-rich environments, while off-gassing carbon dioxide.

Proper planning and commitment are essential qualities when owning a reef aquarium generally, and managing the flow of nutrient-rich water particularly. The needs of each species within an aquarium will define how to create the ideal circulation system. For instance, Spaghetti Leather corals (Sinularia Flexiblis) may prefer a stronger flow, which has the added benefit of showing off its many tentacles. Some Mushroom corals (Discosoma) prefer a low flow; and because they are hardy, they are often referred to as an ideal starter coral. Research prior to introducing any coral type to a reef aquarium is required.

Replicating Nature’s Forces
When it comes to creating an ideal home for marine life, it is critical to strike the right balance of water movement. In the ocean, water moves constantly. For aquariums, reefkeepers must remain vigilant in monitoring conditions and making adjustments in order to encourage a healthy environment.

In an aquarium, water movement is affected by a combination of devices: power heads, pumps and other systems. The ocean does not flow uniformly, and neither should the water in an aquarium. The goal is to find the ideal balance of randomness to meet the needs of varied coral and other aquatic life.

Power heads are rated by the amount of water they move in gallons per hour. With the advent of propeller technology, aquariums may achieve five times the amount of flow, or 125 gallons at 20 times per hour, for the same wattage as used with traditional power heads. An ideal turnover rate in a reef aquarium is 20 to 30 times per hour, though that number may also be dictated by the needs of particular species. This repetitious turning of water is meant to recreate ocean currents, while sending nutrients and oxygen to varied aquatic species.

With the introduction of wave timers, aquariums were able to benefit from a more turbulent flow, which is highly desirable to many reef inhabitants. Using this technology, enthusiasts began experimenting with a combination of devices in an attempt to achieve the right water movement for their particular aquarium.

This frequent experimentation has led to more sophisticated and versatile designs with power head, circulation and utility pump modes, all built into one system. The utility functionality, in particular, offers another layer toward building ideal water conditions. A system with this ability may be used outside of aquariums and is complementary to calcium reactors, refugiums and protein skimmers. In the past, many had to rely on their own do-it-yourself abilities to come up with passable solutions. Today, kits and complete systems make managing water movement less complicated.

Accurately recreating water movement at home not only aids in cleaning and oxygenating water, but also establishing an environment akin to the ocean. Witness a flame angelfish happily swimming against an aquarium’s currents or the tentacles of soft coral swaying gently in a smooth flow.

A healthy respect for the ocean will enhance reef aquariums, as well as the health and well-being of its inhabitants.

Marine Gel Foods and Nutrition

Types of marine foods
There are a variety of different food types available for feeding marine fish, and it is important to make the right choices to ensure your fish get the balance of nutrition they need.

Frozen food
Frozen foods have traditionally been a mainstay of the diets offered to marine species, whereas most freshwater fish receive them only as treats. One of the great advantages of frozen foods is that they are often more acceptable to fussy fish than dry diets.

A wide choice is available, including Krill, Mysis shrimp, Brine Shrimp, Lancefish, Mussels, Cockles and Seaweed. As a result, a varied diet can be offered. On the downside, frozen foods are not always nutritionally complete (e.g., lacking in certain essential fatty acids, vitamins, etc.), and if they aren’t washed before use, can introduce additional phosphorus and organic matter into the water. The latter can be overcome by thawing and rinsing the food before adding it to the aquarium. The use of supplements may help to enhance the nutritional quality of frozen foods, and the fish will also pick up nutrients from food items growing in the aquarium, especially in a reef system. In theory, marine organisms (e.g., Krill) rather than those from other environments (e.g., Brine Shrimp) are more likely to contain the right nutrients.

To see the complete line of Instant Ocean nutritional products, visit www.instantocean.com.

Zoanthids

Class Anthozoa, Subclass Zoantharia, Order Zoanthidea

Common names: zoos, zoanthids, button polyps (sometimes inconsistently given names like “fire and ice” and “people eaters” based on phenotypic characteristics such as coloration and size that may have little or nothing to do with actual species identification)

Natural origin: wide-ranging, Indo-pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1): Zoanthids are usually quite tolerant and easy to care for.

Feeding: Appropriate food particle size depends on the size of the particular coral’s polyp mouth size. Though usually not necessary, some aquarists target feed to encourage faster growth.

Lighting (Level 4 to 10): Though more intense lighting is usually preferred, many zoanthids can adapt to much lower light intensities. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions.

Water flow: These corals do well with moderate to high water flow.

Placement: Though not aggressive corals, they are fast growing when healthy and need considerable space (like Xenia and star polyps, they can become a nuisance in tanks with slower growing stony corals competing for space).

General: Polyps will close at night and when stressed. They may take a few days (or even weeks) to open up in a new environment. WARNING: Zoanthids secrete a slime that is highly toxic to humans. It’s wise to use gloves when touching these corals. Do not touch polyps if you have an open wound. Do not touch eyes or mouth after touching polyps.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer” These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Xenia

Class Anthozoa, Order Alcyonacea, Family Xeniidae, Genus Xenia

Common names: pulse coral, Xenia

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1): Though generally very easy to care for, these corals can be somewhat unpredictable. Some colonies show impressive tolerance and forgiveness of varying conditions while others do not. They are also notorious for sudden and unexplainable death and do not ship well.

Feeding: Specific feeding habits are largely unknown. They are thought to absorb nutrients through their soft tissue (possibly aided by the pulsing of the coral).

Lighting (Level 6 to 10): Xenia can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions, but seem to prefer more intense lighting. As always, be sure to properly acclimate to knew lighting.

Water flow: Moderate to high water flow is important. Higher water flow may increase pulsing activity.

Placement: Though not aggressive corals, like star polyps, they are relentlessly fast growing when healthy. They can become a nuisance in tanks with slower growing stony corals. When injured or dying, they can release toxins. Carbon filtration and prompt removal of injured/dying species can help control any ill-effects of this toxic release.

General: Pulsing activity is something of a mystery (its function and mechanism are currently unknown). Xenia in aquariums sometimes stop pulsing (often without observable cause) but continue to live and grow regardless. Some aquarists have noticed a cessation of pulsing with low pH and/or alkalinity. Polyps will close at night and when stressed. They may take a few days or even weeks to open up in a new environment.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast) … Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation: Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Turbinaria

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Dendrophylliidae, Genus Turbinaria

Common names: pagoda cup coral, turban coral, vase coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 1 to 2): These corals are generally tolerant, forgiving and without much need for specialized care. Always avoid purchasing dyed corals.

Feeding: Turbinaria spp. have medium-sized polyps and good prey capture ability. They feed on a variety of foods including Cyclopeeze (micro crustaceans), mysis and brine shrimp and other meaty aquarium foods. When healthy, the polyps of many species extend and expand quite a bit. When fully expanded, the coral looks “bushy” with tentacles.

Lighting (Level 4 to 8): Turbinaria can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions. As always, to prevent bleaching, be sure to acclimate to new lighting.

Water flow: These corals can be particularly vulnerable to sediment damage (especially when in the cup-shaped juvenile formation). Position the coral to minimize collection of debris and place in areas of moderate to high water flow.

Placement: If cup-shaped, place the coral such that the cup is on its side (rather than sitting “up-right”). Orienting the coral this way will help keep debris from getting trapped in the “mouth” of the cup. Lighting also determines the cupping of these corals. The higher the light levels the more closed the cup, the lower the light levels the flatter. Leave plenty of room for full polyp extension. They are not aggressive corals.

General: These corals feed during the day. Tentacles usually close up at night. It may take several days or weeks for the coral polyps to open up after being introduced into a new home or environment, or after being stressed.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Trachyphylliidae

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Trachyphylliidae

Common names: lobed brain coral, open brain coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2): These corals are generally tolerant, but need to be fed well.

Feeding: Trachyphyllidae have impressive prey capture ability. They will ready eat a variety of meaty aquarium foods. Be forewarned, they can even eat small aquarium fish!

Lighting (Level 4 to 7): These corals seem to prefer moderate lighting. They can adapt to more intense lighting if allowed to do so slowly over time. As with most all corals, sudden changes in lighting can cause bleaching.

Water flow: Moderate to stronger water flow is ideal.

Placement: These are very aggressive corals best placed in a sand or rubble bottom. Give them plenty of room. Sometimes tangs and hermit crabs will nip at and/or irritate the coral’s soft tissue. Keeping the tank well fed can help prevent competition for food.

General: Slow tissue recession can be a sign of starvation. Though these corals have impressive feeder tentacles, in captivity, it may take them some time to get “settled in.” If after several weeks you still do not observe an extension of feeder tentacles, you can try to encourage a feeding response with night-time target feeding. One hour after the lights go out, turn off circulation during feeding so that the food can fall onto the coral. Give the coral an hour or two to “grab hold” of the food, then turn the water flow back on. Do this daily (or every other day) until feeder tentacles extend regularly in anticipation of feeding.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Sun Coral (azooxanthellate)

Class Anthozoa, Subclass Hexacorallia, Order Scleractinia, Family Dendrophylliidae, Genus Tubastraea

Common names: yellow or orange sun coral, orange or yellow sun polyp, black sun coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 4): Azooxanthellate sun coral have demanding feeding requirements that can make them difficult to care for. They are prone to tissue recession which may be a sign of starvation.

Feeding: These corals need frequent and careful target feeding. Some aquarists use an inverted bowl (or other container) placed over the coral during target feeding to help the coral capture enough food. Cyclopeeze (micro crustaceans) and baby brine shrimp are some good food choices. Variety is also helpful.

Lighting (Level 0 to 3): The azooxanthellate sun corals don’t need light. Low intensity and/or indirect light is best. Too much light may encourage nuisance algae to grow over the surface of coral.

Water flow: Moderate to strong water flow is important.

Placement: These are not aggressive corals. They are usually placed at the bottom of an aquarium and away from aggressive, stinging corals.

General: These corals have unfortunately high mortality rates in captivity. That said, frequent and successful feeding can greatly improve chances of survival.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Seriatopora (Bird’s Nest)

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Pocilloporidae, Genus Seriatopora

Common names: bird’s nest coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 2 to 3): These corals are generally less tolerant of unstable conditions. Sensitivity depends heavily on particular species, place of origin, and if caught wild or aquacultured.

Feeding: A small polyped coral with poor prey capture ability, they need food of very small particle size. In a well fed tank with a variety of food, additional feeding might not be necessary.

Lighting (Level 6 to 10): Though quite adaptable, Seriatopora spp. tend to thrive and grow faster under more intense lighting conditions. The ideal lighting for any particular coral will depend heavily on the species and the depth and clarity of the water where it was collected or cultured. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions. As always, be sure to acclimate properly.

Water flow: These corals need strong water flow for effective feeding, good health and growth.

Placement: To compete with other corals for space, these corals have short stinging sweeper tentacles and produce toxic substances in their immediate area to intimidate neighbors. Though they can hold their own territory and out-compete peaceful corals, they may still lose a battle with a more aggressive coral.

General: To increase chances of success, do not attempt to keep these corals in tanks less than a year old. Steady tank parameters and calcium levels of at least 420 ppm are important for health and growth.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting …

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

Porites

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Poritidae, Genus Porites

Common names: boulder coral, Christmas tree worm rock

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 3 to 4): These corals can be quite unforgiving and intolerant. They are not impossible to keep but demand well established aquariums and experienced care.

Feeding: A small polyped coral, they have poor prey capture ability and feed only on very small particle food. In a well fed tank with a variety of food, additional feeding might not be necessary.

Lighting (Level 7 to 10): Though adaptable to some degree, these corals usually need more intense lighting conditions. The ideal lighting for any particular coral will depend on the species and/or the depth and clarity of the water where it was collected or cultured. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions. As always, sudden changes in lighting conditions can result in bleaching. Be sure to acclimate properly.

Water flow: Strong, turbulent water flow is important for effective feeding, good health and to prevent sediment damage.

Placement: Not a particularly aggressive coral in captivity, they can easily be overgrown by more aggressive tank mates.

General: In the wild, Porites corals grow to be quite massive, some being several thousand years old. To increase chances of survival, keep only in well established aquariums that are at least a year old. Steady tank parameters and calcium levels of at least 420 ppm will promote coral health and growth.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.

You Get What You Give

When you consider the overall health of your pond, the very first aspect to take into account is: What are you feeding your fish? A commitment to quality foodscontaining essential vitamins and minerals has a residual long-lasting effect on the entire ecosystem. Because fish absorb the essential ingredients from quality foods, they produce less waste to pollute the water. And, food that is more easily assimilated by the fish will produce less ammonia, which will put less pressure on the biological filter.

For optimal fish nutrition, feed pond fish the proper combination of proteins, fats, fibers, minerals and vitamins. Feeding fish smaller amounts of high-quality foodwill result in optimal nutrition and less waste. (Clear water is important to the ultimate pleasure of the pond and fishkeeping experience.) Even if you have a large number of fish, feeding larger amounts of cheaper food results in more waste. In general, better quality foods can be fed in smaller amounts, as they deliver more nutrition per gram.

Remember: Feed one to three times a day with only as much as fish will consume in five minutes. Don’t forget to remove any uneaten food so that it won’t collect at the bottom of the pond.

The result? Your fish will be happy, healthy and beautiful, and so will your pond!

Filter Maintenance

Into the Pond receives many questions each month about filtration. Filtration is an essential element in any pond, as it removes impurities from the water and thus maintains water quality and fish health. Pressure filters, which provide both mechanical and biological filtration, offer a two-in-one way to trap dirt and debris, while also creating an environment for beneficial bacteria to colonize. However, the added advantage to using a pressure filter is the ability to clean it easily through back-flushing simply by reversing the flow of water.

In order for your filter to operate effectively it must be properly cleaned and maintained. One clear indicator that your filter needs to be cleaned is a change in water flow. If you notice a reduction in water flow, it is time to clean your external filter and/or the prefilter on your pump. The methods for cleaning a filter will be different from filter to filter. Consult your owner’s guide or visit your pond retailer for specific information.

Remember: don’t use untreated tap water to clean the filter
Untreated tap water contains chlorine and chloramines that can kill beneficial bacteria colonies. Use a bucket of pond water that should have already been de-chlorinated to rinse the filter pad or other media.

Pond Pointer: Flow Control Valves

Flow control valves are a great way to control and direct how much water is dispersed in your pond. Install the valves in-line from the pump to a filter, waterfall, fountain or any water feature to reduce or increase the amount of water volume going to that feature.

Have No Fear of Mosquitoes
By Keith R. Heberling, Water Garden Expert

If you have been considering installing a pond, but were holding back for fear of creating a breeding ground for mosquitoes, fear not. A well-designed pond can deter mosquitoes from breeding in two ways:

Fishless pond – Surface movement prevents mosquitoes from forming. The larvae need to be moving constantly by “wiggling” in order to progress through their developmental stages, and water movement will prevent that. A waterfall, small fountain or spitter will create enough of a ripple effect to prevent mosquitoes from hatching.

Pond with fish – An even better solution is to have fish in your pond. They will gladly eat the larvae, as the best mosquito control you can have. It’s good protein too!

So, no more worries. Enjoy!

CREATE: For a step-by-step video guide on how to design, build and care for the perfect water garden, visit www.tetrapond.com.

Pocillopora (and Stylophora)

Class Anthozoa, Order Scleractinia, Family Pocilloporidae, Genera Pocillopora and Stylophora

Common names: cauliflower coral

Natural origin: Indo-Pacific

Sensitivity (Level 3 to 4): These corals can be quite sensitive and intolerant of unstable conditions. Though not impossible to keep, they require experienced care and well established aquariums.

Feeding: Small polyp corals, they have poor prey capture ability and need food of very small particle size. In a well fed tank with a variety of food, additional feeding might not be necessary.

Lighting (Level 6 to 10): Though adaptable, Pocillopora spp. tend to grow faster and fair better under more intense lighting. The ideal lighting for any particular coral will depend on the species and the depth and clarity of the water where it was collected or cultured. As with any zooxanthellate coral, coloration can change in response to changing lighting conditions. And as with all corals, sudden changes in lighting conditions can result in bleaching. Be sure to acclimate properly.

Water flow: Like Acropora spp. and Montipora spp., these corals need strong water flow for effective feeding, health and growth.

Placement: These are not aggressive corals and can be overgrown or out-competed by faster growing or more aggressive neighbors.

General: Some species are confused for branching Montipora. Fortunately, care requirements are mostly similar for both corals. Steady tank parameters and calcium levels of at least 420 ppt will promote coral health and growth. Pocillopora spp. can grow relatively fast under favorable conditions. A brooding coral, Pocillopora can sexually reproduce in captivity.

Sensitivity:

Level 1 – These corals are easy to care for, good for the novice aquarists.

Level 2 – These corals require slightly more attention than level 1 corals, but are generally tolerant and forgiving.

Level 3 – These corals require stable, established aquariums and care by an experienced aquarist.

Level 4 – These corals should only be kept by the most experienced aquarists.

Level 5 – These corals are not known to be able to survive in aquariums even when under the care of the most experienced aquarists

Note that this scale is not set in stone, but based on the numerous experiences and reports of professional and hobby aquarists. The sensitivity and tolerance of any given coral in your tank will depend on species, health when collected/purchased, how long it’s been in captivity, and other factors that may or may not be knowable.

Lighting Scale (approximations):

Level 0 – no light

…

Level 3 – one foot below modest VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 5 – two feet below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

…

Level 6 – one foot below extensive VHO or T5 fluorescent lighting

Level 7 – two feet below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Level 8 – one foot below 250 watt single ended MH light (or 150-175 watt MH with HQI ballast)

…

Level 10 – one foot below 400 watt single ended MH (or 250 watt MH with HQI ballast)

Note that this scale is quite crude and only meant to provide a rough idea of the different levels of light intensities. How much (and what kind of) light actually reaches the corals in your tank also depends on the type of reflector in the light fixture, the temperature of the bulbs/lamps, the clarity of your tank water, etc.

It’s also important to note that different individual corals, even of the same species, can have very different lighting requirements and ideals. Often times, the same types and species of wild caught corals come from different depths and different water clarities. It’s nearly impossible to know what kind or how much light was getting to your coral when it was first taken from the wild. One advantage of aquacultured corals is that you can know what light they were grown under. Beyond health, the color of any given zooxanthellate (photosynthetic) coral will change and adapt in response to the lighting it is placed under. All corals are vulnerable to bleaching if not allowed to acclimate to a change to more intense lighting. If your coral begins to bleach, move it to an area of lower lighting and feed it especially well.

Acclimation:

Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2: Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water.

Step 3: Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity. You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive animals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket (rather than the transport bag). However, the bucket water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature (especially for slow acclimations). Insulating the bucket in a Styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank. Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be. If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area. After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.

General “Disclaimer”

These care sheets are a brief presentation of the needs and characteristics of a variety of commonly kept aquarium corals. Though there’s a lot of science in reef keeping, the hobby itself has always been and continues to be an imperfect science. Much is still unknown and there is often more than one way to do things. Please take what’s written here as a starting point, but always keep an active and curious mind.