We have a great batch of fish for sale to start out the new month. Have a look:

Let There Be Light!

One of the areas in which technological development has really made a huge difference to the health and longevity of reef tank setups is lighting. Until a few years ago, the aspiring reefkeeper was faced with a choice of either expensive metal halide lamps (needing supplemental blue lighting from fluorescent tubes), a combination of fluorescent tubes (that even the experts couldn’t agree on), or mercury vapor lights that were completely unsuitable in terms of color spectrum.

Those days were over with the arrival of specialized fluorescent tubes designed for marine systems. Subsequently, quite a range of such tubes has come on the market, considerably simplifying things for those of use with reef aquaria. Metal halide lighting has also evolved. Bulbs are now available which deliver the correct spectrum for invertebrates without the need for supplementary fluorescent tubes. Prices have also become more affordable.

Marine aquariums need light for a number of reasons. In a fish-only system the primary reason for lighting the tank is to view the fish. If lighting of sufficient intensity is provided, macroalgae or even filamentous algae can be stimulated to grow, with the benefit of improving water quality. Algal growth also stimulates the establishment of populations of small crustaceans, providing both a direct (the algae itself) and indirect source of food for the fish.

In a reef tank, lighting is much more important because most of the corals and invertebrates depend upon light as a primary source of food. Within their tissues, these animals harbor populations of single celled algae, known as zooxanthellae, which photosynthesize to produce nutrients then used by the host.

In nature, reef inhabitants reside a different depths, therefore requiring different intensity of light to thrive. Red light penetrates water poorly, whereas blue, violet and ultraviolet light can reach much greater depths. Consequently, in order to choose the correct spectrum lighting it’s important to know where on the reef your pets came from. If you have any questions, please come in or give us a call.

Question: How Much Should I Feed My Fish?
Answer: In answer to the reader question:
“The last few cans of fish food I bought said Do Not Overfeed. Why is that a
problem, and how much should I feed my fish?”
Overfeeding is the most common mistake fish owners make. Overfeeding clogs
the filter, and breaks down into toxins that are harmful to fish. Hence the
warnings on the packages.
In nature fish eat whenever they are hungry and food is available. If food sources
are plentiful, they will eat several times a day. On the other hand, if food sources
are scarce, they might go for days between meals. For this reason, fish are very
opportunistic and will eat whenever they have a chance. That means that if you
offer them food, they will usually gobble it up even if they aren’t starving. Keep
that in mind the next time your fish ‘beg’ for food. Fish quickly learn who brings
the food to the tank and will jump at the chance to be fed, even if they are not in
dire need of food.
How Often
So how often, and how much should fish be fed? Frequency will vary based on
the type of fish. In general most fish do quite well on one feeding per day.
However, some owners prefer to feed their fish twice a day. Regardless of one or
two feedings, the key is to keep the feedings very small. The timing is not critical,
with the exception of nocturnal feeders, such as certain catfish. If you have
nocturnal fish in your tank, be sure to feed them just before turning the lights out
at night.
There are some exceptions to the once per day feeding rule. Herbivores
(vegetarians) need to eat frequently because they do not have large stomachs to
hold a lot of food. In nature they would graze all day long on plants. They should
be given several small feedings a day, or provided with live plants they can
nibble. Newly hatched fry and young fish not fully grown, require more frequent
feedings of special foods designed for fry.
How Much
As for how much food to feed, a good rule of thumb is to feed no more than the
fish will consume completely in thirty seconds to one minute. When in doubt, underfeed!
You can always give them another small feeding if necessary. However, if you
overfeed the uneaten food will produce by-products which can be harmful to the
fish. In the event you do overfeed, promptly remove the uneaten food using a
siphon or net.
As a final note, keep in mind that not only the amount but the type of food is
important. Below is a link to a handy table that shows the proper type of diet for
most popular aquarium fish.

10 Methods to Balance Your Pond by Aquascape

Mother Nature’s prescription to maintain a balanced ecosystem pond is reallyquite simple!  Many pond problems are symptoms of imbalances. There are several methods that can help keep your pond in balance, in case it needs a little boost.  We like to refer to these as complements to Mother Nature.

Aquascape EcoBlast™
EcoBlast™ Granular Algaecide is the fastest way to eliminate algae from waterfalls, streams, and fountains. Simply sprinkle EcoBlast™ onto the algae and watch it disappear! EcoBlast™ works best when the product is applied directly to the algae. It’s fast-acting, safe for fish, and can be used at any water temperature.

Aquascape Beneficial Bacteria
Beneficial Bacteria contains bacteria and enzymes that are specifically blended to be effective at reducing sludge, uneaten fish food, fish waste, dead and decaying plant material, and excess nutrients that cause poor water quality and clarity. Blended and tested to produce maximum results in ornamental ponds.

Aquascape S.A.B.™
This is formulated to help reduce pond maintenance and promote the growth of beneficial bacteria and enzymes, and includes a powerful phosphate binder. S.A.B.™ will assist in the breakdown and reduction of debris in the stream, waterfalls, and pond.

Plants
Since plants directly compete with algae for nutrients and sunlight, they are probably the most important addition to your pond. Add a wide variety of plants to your pond. This not only creates a natural look, but also will help reduce the algae in different areas of your pond.

Place your floating plants, such as water lettuce, in you BioFalls® Filter. These floating plants reproduce rapidly, using up enormous amounts of nutrients. A stick placed across the front of the BioFalls® Filter will prevent the plants from flowing over the front of the waterfalls and into the pond.

Plenty of bog and marginal plants should be added to the pond. Plants such as cattails and iris take up large quantities of nutrients. They are hardy and will be back each spring to help keep your pond balanced.

Cover the water surface of the pond by planting water lilies.  Lily pads float on the top of the pond, shading the water.

Physical Removal
Physically remove clumps of string algae if it begins to overtake the pond. Pull or cut away the algae where it is attached. Think of it as “weeding the pond.”

Koi
Adding koi over 10 inches in length will greatly reduce string algae. The koi, if not overfed, will graze on the string algae in the pond. Only feed the fish what they can consume within a few minutes. Fish food that is not eaten by fish will decompose in the pond and increase nutrient levels.

Fix Leaks
Tap water can have an abundance of nutrients in it. Continually adding large quantities of tap water to compensate for a leak can actually promote algae growth. Fix leaks when they are discovered.

Control Run-Off
Never use lawn fertilizer or insecticides on trees around your pond or on areas of your property that will drain toward your pond. Lawn fertilizer and insecticides will cause large algae blooms, as well as severely threaten the aquatic life inside your pond.

Remove Debris
Keep your pond free of debris. Don’t let the skimmer debris net overfill with leaves. Decaying debris in the skimmer will contribute to unwanted nutrients.

Have Patience
It takes time for the bacteria to establish itself and colonize to the point of being a benefit to your pond. In general, a new pond can take anywhere from two to six weeks for the bacteria population to reach this point.

How to Manage Algae

Algae are normal, and often necessary components of any aquatic ecosystem – they are far from being harmful. Algae growth only becomes a problem when it interferes with the aquariums aesthetic appearance or it begins to overtake delicate organisms.

The most effective way to control problem algae is to control its food sources: nitrate, phosphate, carbon dioxide and dissolved organic matter. These nutrients are in short supply in natural environments such as tropical lakes, rivers and coral reefs. However, due to the aquarium’s closed system and density of organisms, nutrients can accumulate rapidly, forming a constant food source. Therefore understanding where these nutrients come from will help you control them.

Nitrate, phosphate and dissolved organics come from tap water, feeding the biological process. Some salt additive mixes also include these nutrients. Our goal is to manage the introduction of these food sources into the aquarium.

• Tap Water Tap water in our area has measurable levels of nitrate, phosphate, silicate and heavy metals, all of which can promote algae growth and stunt the growth of desirable living plants, corals and invertebrates. Use of Reverse Osmosis (RO) water is the most efficient step in reducing the addition of these toxins. Just switching from tap water to RO water has resulted in cleaner aquariums with less maintenance for many aquarists. At Fintastic, we use RO water exclusively in all our saltwater systems and freshwater displays.

• Feeding Ninety percent of the nitrogen in foods added to the aquarium ends up as nitrate in the water. Feeding also contributes to phosphate buildup. Overfeeding is typically the largest and most common source of algae nutrients. Feeding very small amounts twice a day (all food should be eaten within one minute) with no excess food laying on the bottom of the tank is your goal.

• The Biological Process Mother Nature’s bacteria will reduce ammonia, nitrite and dissolved organics to nitrate. This process cannot be eliminated or altered as biological filtration is the most important type of filtration keeping your aquarium alive! Your goal is to keep organics levels as low as possible through proper feeding and husbandry of the aquarium. In saltwater, one of the newer methods is to eliminate the biological area in your trickle filter and follow the Berlin method. This process includes using plenty of live rock (2 pounds/gallon), live sand (3-4 inches deep), massive water flow, and strong protein skimming for filtration. Maintaining a calcium level of 400-450 ppm will promote the calcareous algae rather than the undesirable microalgae.

• Additions to the Aquarium Additives for freshwater plant tanks (i.e. plant foods/fertilizers) should be done with test kits in hand to ensure the proper levels are maintained. Too little or too much will cause problems. Saltwater hobbyists should ensure their salt mix is nitrate/phosphate free and low in silicate. All other nutrient additives should be used very sparingly while other elements (calcium, strontium, molybdenum, iodine) should be consistently added.

• Lighting Lighting problems can cause outbreaks of diatoms, red slime algae and blue-green slime algae. As lamps age, the light spectrum deteriorates, triggering the growth of undesirable algae. Fluorescent lamps (standard output) should be changed at least once a year, VHO lamps every four to six months, and metal halide and super compact lamps every year.

• Other Ways to Control Undesirable Algae Once the introduction of nutrients is controlled, water changes incorporating vacuuming the detritus out of the gravel is the fastest way to remove the built-up impurities. Maintaining low levels can further be achieved by using nitrate and phosphate removing filter media. The addition of algae eating fish and snails is another natural way to keep the algae in check. Protein skimming is now considered a mandatory saltwater filtration component to reduce desolved organics. Ultraviolet (UV) sterilization will also kill free-floating algae spores. UV sterilization works effectively with freshwater and saltwater aquariums and ponds.

Hey everyone! We have a great selection of animals in this week, make sure to come have a visit!

Gravel Vacuuming & Partial Water Changes

Regular, periodic, partial water changes are mandatory to maintain proper water quality and the only means by which nitrates can be maintained at acceptable levels. The gravel should be simultaneously vacuumed to remove trapped debris and uneaten food. Frequency will depend upon aquarium size, the species, size and number of fish, feeding habits and filtration quality.

• A minimum of 25% of water volume should be changed every two weeks.

• Unplug aquarium heater(s) before beginning.

• Remove ornamentation other than live plants. “Walk the gravel cleaner across the entire bottom of the aquarium, agitating the gravel in the gravel cleaning tube until the water being removed flows clean.

• Refill the aquarium with tap water of the same temperature and pH as that of the aquarium water, after having added the prescribed amount of dechlorinator and aquarium salt (for marine tanks) to the water.

• Saltwater must be premixed and aerated or agitated for several hours to insure correct salinity and pH before being added to the aquarium.

• Wait 15 minutes before plugging the heater(s) back in.

Medication

Many medications require water changes before, during and/or after treatment. These must be done in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Medicating without correcting improper water quality will have no beneficial effect. All carbon and other media must be removed from the filters prior to medicating. Do not turn off the filter! Just remove the chemical component of the filter.

Pond

When water temperature exceeds 50°-55°F, 25% of the pond volume should be changed every 3-4 weeks. This schedule should be complemented with larger volume water changes (50%+) associated with spring and fall maintenance. Particular attention should be paid to water quality and the related necessity of water changes during the hot summer months, with frequent monitoring of pH and dissolved oxygen required.

Filter Media Tips

Disposable filter cartridges should be replaced monthly. Filters recirculate the same water over and over. Regardless of where particulates collect: the aquarium bottom or the filter, they will be broken down to produce ammonia. Monthly replacement will remove the particulate from the aquarium and keep flow rate from slowing down due to clogging.

• Reusable and/or biological filter media should be washed in water taken from the aquarium. Chlorine in tap water is lethal to nitrifying bacteria.

• Micron cartridges should be cleaned by soaking in a solution of unscented household bleach and water (one part bleach to five parts water) for several hours. Rinse thoroughly under pressure. As an added precaution, they can be soaked in a solution of water and dechlorinator prior to being reused.

• Chemical filter media (i.e. carbon, Ammo-carb, and ammonia chips) should be replaced each month. These remove molecules of organic compounds from the water until the surface area becomes saturated. Once saturated, these media are no longer effective and may begin releasing compounds back into the water.

• Several manufacturers now offer rechargeable chemical media as an alternative to carbon. These should be used and recharged in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions.

• IMPORTANT: If for any reason the power filter has been shut off for two hours or less, biological, chemical and mechanical filter media should be thoroughly rinsed before restarting the filter. To preserve existing nitrifying bacteria, rinse the biological filter media with water taken from the aquarium. If the power filter has been off for more than two hours, the mechanical and chemical filter media must be discarded and the biological media thoroughly rinsed. Toxic, anaerobic bacteria will be present.

Build your Aquarium Around your Fish

There are many challenges in fish keeping. One of them is to successfully maintain fishes that grow reasonably large or are so active or territorial that they need a spacious tank in which to thrive. Like any other animal, fish need adequate accommodation, regular feeding, clean conditions, and appropriate exercise. In fact, you should always give as much consideration to owning a fish as you would to owning any other pet.

So…you find yourself standing in front of a display tank, contemplating bringing home that really special looking fish, little realizing (unless you buy your fish at Fintastic, where we’d tell you) that that tiny little fish will outgrow your aquarium in a very short time.

It is always difficult to know where to start when planning a new aquarium. The temptation is to buy your pet first and then consider the problems of housing it. Misjudging the long-term implications is easy, especially if the fish you have chosen is a juvenile. After all, it shouldn’t grow that fast, you hope! Most fish sold are juveniles, some will get just a little larger, but others may get huge. Oscars are a good example, growing as large as 15 inches. A large aquarium, measuring at least 48″x18″x18″ is essential. Other species, like many of the aggressive cichlids, are highly territorial and will need a lot of room to thrive.

The best way to go about things is to build your tank around the fish you want to keep. Having decided on a fish that interests you, the first task is to determine the minimum tank size it will need at maturity, not what it needs now when it’s as small as a guppy! Next investigate the ideal filtration system to maintain the required water conditions. A filter system can never be too large for the aquarium. However big the tank you provide is, it will never be anywhere near the size of the lake or river (or ocean!) in which the fish lives in the wild!

And most importantly, before you buy any fish you’re not familiar with, become familiar with it. Compatibility with other species is only one issue, size and personality are important too.